Felling machine



July 14, 1959 M. BUONO FELLING MACHINE 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Aug. 11, 1953 INVENTCR WM Wm- M ATTORNEYS July 14, 1959 M. BuoNo FELLING MACHINE 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Aug. 11. 1953 INVENTOR 77 14/06: W

ATTORNEYS July 14, 1959 M. BUONO FELLING MACHINE 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Aug. 11, 1953 INVENTOR WM/1x0 5am malt- ATTORNEYS M. BUONO FELLING MACHiNE July 14, 1959 Filed Aug. 11, 1953 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR My; um/

BY 771mm Ti ATTORNEYS July 14, 1959 M. BUONO FELLING MACHINE 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Aug. 11, 1953 INVENTOR ATTORNEYS July 14, 1959 BUONQ 2,894,470

FELLING MACHINE Filed Aug. 11, 1953 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR 5 m [BY 7 00 r W ATTORNEYS States Patent My invention relates to a new and improved chainstitch sewing machine for doing felling sewing.

It is necessary to form felling stitches in many important classes-of sewing operations, in which the work consists in whole 'or in part' of a plurality of superposed layers. In such cases, the felling stitches overlap the edge of the top layer and said felling stitches extend through the top layer of the work and through the next adjacent lower layer of the work.

=Felling stitches are often used t-o'sew a lining to drapery material; which is usually thicker than the lining. Blind felling stitches are used extensively, to sew a lining to the sleeve of a garment. In doing this Work, a" tubular cloth sleeve'body is first sewed, and said pre sewed tubular body is doubled at its front edge,'so that it has an inner cylindrical sleeve or body flap at its front edge. The lining is sewed to the tubular sleeve body, While said sleeve body is temporarilyturned inside out, so that said cylindrical' -sleeve or body flap is then at the outside of the turned sleeve body. The body of the lining is usually doubled at its front edge, so that said lining body has an inner lining flap.- This lining flap of the doubled lining is applied to the outer face of the exposed sleeve flap or body fiap, so that the common front edge of the two lining layers overlaps the inner edge of the body flap. The lining is sewed to the body flap, but not to the body of the sleeve, by means of felling stitches which overlap the common front doubled edge of the two lining-layers; These felling stitches are designated as blind felling stitches because they are invisible when the tubular sleeve and its lining are turned back to normal position, because said felling stitches do not penetrate the sleeve body. 1 I

For more thanfifty years, chain-stitch machines which have a curved needle and a looper and a work table have been extensively used in industry.

These machines are generally shown in many United States patents, .such'as the following:

Number: Date: 1,926,644-Sept. 12,1933 1,926,76'1-Sept512, 1933 2,108,100Feb. 15, 1938 2,108,101 Feb. 15, 1938' l 2,250,745-Ju1y 29, 1941 i 2,355,904-Aug. 15, 1944 2,514,837--July 11, 1950 2,62 7,828Feb.' 10, 1953 In general, this type of vmachine has a work-support or work-plate. This work-support is pivoted .to the frame ofthe machine, so that its top face may bevertically adjusted relative to the lateral path of the oscillating, curved: needle. Thiswork-support is provided with work-supporting fingers which are pivoted to said worksupport, and the workor material is fslidably supported on said fingers. A' feed-dog intermittently feeds the work or materiallongitudinally away from the front of themachineq U 2,894,470 Patented July 14, 1959 A rib or other bight-forming member is operated to form an upward longitudinal bight or bend in the work, while the longitudinal feed of the work is temporarilystopped, and while the curved needle is temporarily out of the work. As viewed at the front of the machine, thelateral piercing stroke of the laterally oscillated curved needle has been generally from left-to-right, and its re verse lateral stroke in which the needle is moved out of said bight, has been from right-to-left. 1

Although this general type of machine has been wellknown and extensively used for at least fifty years, it has not been used in doing felling, or such use has been very unsatisfactory, particularly in felling a lining to a sleeve. In general, this type of machine has moved the curved needle laterally from left-to-right, in the lateral piercing stroke of the oscillating needle. Hence, 1 in sewing a lining to work which consisted of a sleeve, as one example, it was necessary to force the entire tubular sleeve body on the work-support or work plate, with the front edge of the sleeve body at the left of the operator at the front of the machine. This was impossible or so difficult as to make it impossible to use this type of machine for felling a lining to a sleeve, and also for doing many other types of felling work. Hence felling work has been largely or wholly done by hand.

According to this invention, this well-known typeof sewing machine as been reconstructed so that it can'do felling work quickly and accurately, with a great saving in cost.

According to one feature of my invention, the curved needle is oscillated laterally in its forward piercing stroke from n'ght-to-left and in a rear reverse stroke from left-to-right, thus reversing the usual direction of the piercing stroke of the needle.

According to another feature of my invention, the upward longitudinal bight is formed only in the lower layer or layers of the work, at the right of the top layer or layers, and the top layer of layers are located upon' the left shoulder or wall of the upward longitudinal bight. .5 Hence, in sewing a lining to work which consists o a pre-sewed tubular sleeve body, as one example, it is necessary to mount only the edge-portion of the turned sleeve-body on the work-table, and the doubled front edge of the sleeve is at the right, as viewed at the front of the machine. The main part of the turned sleeve-v body and the main part of the lining are off the work support. The longitudinal bight is formed only in two layers of the turned sleeve body, one of said layers being said temporarily exposed cylindrical flap of the turned and tubular sleeve-body. The two layers of the doubled lining rest upon the left wall or shoulder of the longitudinal bight which is formed ony in the two layers of the turned sleeve body. Said bightis formed'at the left of the doubled edge of said turned sleeve body. In its lateral right-to-left piercing stroke, the curved needle first penetrates the cylindrical flap of the turned sleeve body and the needle then penetrates the two lay-. ers of the lining which are adjacent its doubled edge. At the end of said piercing stroke, the looper engagesthe loop of needle thread and the looper transferssaid engaged loop of needle thread from left to right, so that the loop of needle thread is in position to engage with the needle thread in the next right-to-left piercing stroke of the needle. For this purpose, the action of the looperhas been greatly modified. A series of blind felling stitches are thus formed, in which the loops of the needle thread overlap the doubled edge of the lining, and'said loopsv are directed forwardly and to the left of the points" the tubular sleeve body.-

In certain classes of work, these felling switches need not be blind stitches.

It is well-known to connect the layers of the work by temporary basting stitches, which are subsequently removed from the finished work and this can be done n doing felling Work by the improved machine.

The invention is further explained in the following drawings and description. In this specific illustration, the-machine has a curved oscillating needle, an oscillated longitudinal rib and many other specific features. The invention is not limited to the type of machine which is shown as a highly preferred embodiment.

Fig. l is a front elevation of the improved machine, whose operation results in the improved method.

Fig. 2 is an end elevation of Fig. 1. Fig. 2 is taken at the leftof Fig. 1. I

Fig. 3 is a horizontal section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2. It shows respective extreme position of the mechanism for operating the looper, in full lines and in broken lines.

Fig. 4 is a longitudinal vertical section on the line of Fig. 3.

Fig. -5 is a detail perspective view of some of the parts of the machine. The view corresponds to Fig. 10. The needle is at the end of its right-to-left piercing stroke. The looper is in its extreme rearward position, and as viewed at the front of the machine, the looper is at the right of the rib.

Fig. 6 shows the parts of Fig. 5, in the positions of Fig. 8. The needle has commenced its reverse left-toright stroke.

Fig. 7 is a. detail front view, showing the bight-forming rib in vertical section. The needle is shown at the end of its right-to-left piercing stroke, in which it has pierced three layers of the work. The looper is shown anterior its position in which it engages the loop of needle thread.

Fig. 8 is similar to Fig. 7. Fig. 8 shows the needle shortly after the beginning of its reverse left-to-right stroke and prior to the end of said reverse stroke. The looper is shown with its long finger in the respective loop of needle thread.

Fig. 9 is similar to Figs. 7 and 8. Fig. 9 shows the needle at the end of its reverse left-to-right lateral stroke. It also shows how the looper has shifted the nextpreceding loop of needle thread, so that the needle can pass through said next-preceding loop of needle thread, in the next right-to-left piercing stroke of the needle.

Fig. 10 shows the needle at the end of the next rightto-leftpiercing stroke, in which the needle passes through the next-preceding loop of needle thread, in order to form the respective chain stitch.

Fig. 11 is a longitudinal vertical section on the line 1l-11 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 12 is a longitudinal vertical section on the line 12-.-12 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 13 is an elevation partially in section, on the line 13-.-13 of Fig. 11.

Fig. 14 is a perspective view, partially in longitudinal and lateral vertical cross-section, which shows the visible parts of the chain stitches which are at the rear or concealed portion of the Work.

Fig. 15 is an end-view, partially in lateral vertical cross-section, which generally shows the old-style machine, in which the lateral piercing stroke of the needle is from left-tonight.

Fig. 16 is a perspective view which shows the location of the visible parts of the chain stitches which are formed by-tthe oldrstyle machine.

Fig. 17 shows how a lining is sewed to the tubular turned cloth body of a sleeve by a felling stitch.

The machine has an arm or head 1, a frame F, a s pport H, and a base B. As shown in Fig. 3, the arm or head 1 is fixed detachably to frame F by rel able fastening members 39 and 39a.

As shown in Fig. 2, the work support H is pivoted in the usual manner at Ha to the frame of the machine. The angular position of work-support H is adjusted by known adjusting means Hb, which are described in said prior patents. The hand-operated means 4, for operating said adjusting means Hb, are shown in Fig. 1. Said means 4 include a turnable knob 5 which is turned manually, in order to regulate the position of work-support H and the depth of the stitch. Said knob 5 has teeth, not shown. Additional teeth, not shown, are provided in lever 6 which is pivoted at 7 to arm 1. A tension spring 8 keeps. these teeth of knob ;5 and lever 6 in mesh, so that lever 6 keeps knob 5 in its adjusted position, although knob 5 can be turned by hand while said teeth are in mesh.

Fig. l and Fig. 2 show the usual discs 9 and 9a, :between which the needle thread 1 is led over the usual guide to the curved needle N. These discs 9 and 9a keep thread 1 under tension anterior needle N. Disc 9a is fixed to arm 1. Disc 9 is laterally slidable relative to disc 9a. A compression spring 10 urges slidable disc 9 towards disc 9a, which may be turnable or non=turnable. This detail is well-known and does not require fur.- ther illustration.

The upper end of the curved needle N is releasably fixed by clamping member 1111 and screw 11c to the lower end of needle arm 11.

As shown in Fig. 1, the upper end of needle-arm 11 is fixed to one leg of a resilient clamping yoke 11a,

whose legs are clamped by screw 56 to the usual longitudinal needle shaft 12. This needle shaft 12 is rocked or oscillated, in order to oscillate the curved needle N, by means which are later described.

Fig. 1 also shows the usual needle-plate 14, which is fixed rigidly to arm 1 by a fastening screw 15.

Fig. 2 shows the usual longitudinal slot 21 of the needle plate 14, in which the feed-dog 22 operates in the usual manner, in intermittent longitudinal feeding strokes, in order to feed the work longitudinally, namely, in the plane of Fig. 2. The bight is formed intermittently in the work by the usual rib R, which is moved intermittently upwardly through the slot 21, in order to form the bight which is shown in Figs. 7-10 inclusive. Of course, the needle N is oscillated in its piercing stroke and reverse stroke while the longitudinal feed of the work is temporarily discontinued. The means for operating the rib R are not shown, because they are well-known and described in said prior patents.

The work is fed under the needle-plate 14 in'the usual manner and it remains under the needle-plate 14 in the usual manner, save when the rib R is operated to form the upward and longitudinal bend or bight in the work.

Figs. 7, 8, 9, 10 illustrate work which has a lower layer 74, which is doubled at edge EB to provide an upper layer 75. Said upper layer is doubled at edge EC to provide a flap or layer 7511, which is between upper layer 75 and lower layer 74. As above noted, Fig, 7 shows the needle N at the end of its right-to-left piercing stroke, and Fig. 8 shows the needle N shortly after the beginning of its reverse leftto-right stroke. The doubled edge BB is located to the left of the point of needle N, when needle N is at the end of its right-toleft piercing stroke.

The longitudinal bight is formed in layer 74, so as to provide a bight which has two legs in layer 74. In its piercing stroke, needle N pierces and passes through both legs of said bight in layer 74. In said'bight, the

75a a'nd 75, close to thedoubled edge EC.of.said'layers- 75a and 75: i As previously noted,when the work is'a sleeve, the body of the-sleeve has an'inturned flap which is exposed. The layer-74 correspondsto said exposedflap ofthe sleeve inthe operation of themachin'e. The layer 75 corresponds to the top layer of the'lining duririg the sewing operation, and the layer 75a corresponds to the-inturned flap 'of thelining.

The needle penetrates the .two walls of the bight close to the top or peak of said bight, and it penetrates the layers 75 and 75a close to their doubled edge E. As previously explainedyif blind felling stitches are used to sew a lining to a sleeve, the needle penetrates only the exposedflapof thesleeve-bodyand does not penetrate the sleeve' body itself; *However, if the sleevebody" is of sufiicient thicknessflhe needlemay' penetrate both the flap and the sleeve-body. Fig. 7 shows the formation ofa blind felling stitch, in which the needle penetrates the layer 74 between-itstop and bottom faces, so that the felling stitches will not be visible at the 'exposed face of the layer 74. However, if layer 74 is thin, exposed-felling stitches will'be formed, instead of blind felling stitches; and the'invention is -not limited to the formation of blind felling'stitches. 2

' It is clear from Fig. 7 that the-main portions of layers 75 and 74, which are at the left of the bight in'Fig. 7, are oil? the work table, and that only the right edge-portion'iof the thicker part of the work need be on the work table.

Fig. 7 shows the position of the looper L at the left of the bight, at the end 'of the lateral right-to-left stroke of the needle N.

Fig; 8 shows the position of the needle N, shortly after the beginning of its reverse lateral left-to-rig'ht stroke. A loop Na 'of the needle thread has-been formed in theusual manner. The finger 23 ofthe looper L has enteredsaid loop Na. 1 The arrows in Figs. 7 and 8 indicate the respective direction of the respective lateral strokes ofthe needle N.-

Fig. '9 shows the needle N at thetend of its left-toright reverse stroke; The' arrow inFig. 9 indicates the direction of "the next right-to-le'ft lateral stroke of the needle. Fig. 9 shows how both fingers 23 and 24 of looper L have entered and enlarged the loop Na during the'left-to-right reversestroke of the needle, and that the looper L has-shifted said=enlarged loop to the right of the bight in layer 74, and that said enlarged loop Na has been shifted longitudinally forwardly, so that the needle N will enter s'aidfenlarged and longitudinally shifted loop Na in the next lateral right-to-left' piercing stroke of the needle, before the needle will penetrate the bight in layer 74.

Fig. 10 shows the needle Na at the end of its next: rightto-le'ft piercing stroke, or close to the end of said piercing stroke. As shown in Fig. 10, the needle N has passes successively through the enlarged loop Na, through both walls or legs of the bightin layer 74, and through both layers 75 and 75a and'the loope'r. L has been moved out of the loop Na'shortly after the needle N has passed between the loop'fingers 23- and 24 to enter the loopNa. A succession of felling chain-stitches S is thus formed. .Fig. 14 shows the felling chain-stitches S in the finished work. The work-is held in- Fig. 14 in the same positionas during sewing in the machine illustrated herein. The chain-stitches S are at the right edge of the thicker part of the work, whichhas the greatest number of layers.'. r a

Fig. 16 shows the finished work in the position in which it must be held informing felling stitchesSa in" the old style. chain-stitch machine :which has heretofore =been generally used for type'of work. These'stitches 'Sziare at the left edge of the thicker part of thework;

If the layers 75 and 74 are of considerable'lateral dimension, it would be impossible to put them on' the work table at the right of the bight. In the improved machine, only a short lateral part of the work need be put on the work-table. Hence if alining is to be sewed upon a sleeve as explained herein, the sleeve is insertedfrom left to-right into the machine so that'the edge 'of the sleeve body and its flap are upon the fingers 16 and 16a later-mentioned, but the main .body ofthe sleeve is off-the work-table and to the left of the-'work table The doubled edge of the lining is also inserted from ri-ght-toleftinto the machine above said fingers 16-and 16a, with the two layers of the lining resting upon the two layers of the sleeve-body and with the main body of thelining in a position to the left of the work-table.

Fig. 17 shows a lining 81 sewed by felling stitches S to the exposed inturned flap 82 of a sleeve '80. This sleeve is shown inkthe position in which the-felling stitches S are formed in the improved machine. The right edge-portionof flap 82 corresponds to layer 74 in Figs. 7-10. The'layers 75 and 75a correspond to the twolayers of the inturned lining 81. If blind felling stitches are formed, theneedle penetrates' the' two legs or walls which are formed in the sleeve-flap 82, in the manner shown in Figs. 7-10, and the needle then penetrates the respective single upwardly-bent legs of'the intur'ned lining. The left edge of sleeve'flap 82 is not shown in Fig. 17, because it is under the right doubled edge por-' tion ofthelining 81. r

j Fig. 1 shows the usual identical work-supporting fingers 16 and 16a, on which the work is directlyslidably supported below the needle-plate 14. These fin gers 1-6 and 16a are connected to the usual and identical associated parts, .which include the usual arm-or levers 18,.which have the usual extensions 18a.

-'-Thus, Fig. 2 shows that the finger 16 is pivoted at 17- to. an arm or lever 18, which is pivoted at 19 to work-- support H. Said arm or leverv 18.has the usual extension 1801. A tension biasing spring 20 which is connected to work-support H and extension 18a, biases arm 18 to bias finger16 upwardly, in the usual manner.

As shown=in Fig. 3, this looperLhas the usual long looper finger 23 and the usual short looper "finger 24.

. As shown in Figs.. 2'and 3, one end of the looper b screwed into a th'readed recess of a bushing 40, which has a cylindrical outer wall which is turnable in a cylindrical socket of frame F. Said pivot-stud 30 and its threaded extension 30a have a common pivot axis, which is eccentric relative to the axis of the outer cylindrical wall of bushing 40. Hence, by turning bushing 40 manually in its socket of frame F to a selected adjustetfposition, the efiective longitudinal stroke of looper Ljcaii be adjusted, in order to-regulate the length of the chain stitch. The bushing 40 is'hel'd in its manually adjusted position by' the releasable clamping screw 40a. I The ball27a and said sleeve 30s and saidpivot-stud 30 provide an -un'iversaljoint connection'between the l'oope'r-rod 27 and said pivoted yoke 28a28. 5 I As shown in Fig. 2, the inner or'left end of the looperrod 27 is located in a socket 31a of a looper-actuating member 31. This socket 310 of looper-actuatirig mem her 131 may -be split, resilient, andinternally threaded;

Theinner or left end of looper rod 27 may be threaded and screwed into. said socket 31a.

This split and resilient socket 31a. of looper-actuatintg member 31 may be tightened by a clamp. which consists of two. clamp. parts 32, which are forced towards each other by clamping screws 33 and 33w.

Asshown in Fig. 2 and Fig. 3, the inner end of the, limpet-operating member 31 is fork-shaped to provide two legs which are pivoted to a hollowbushing 35v bya. pivot-pin 3.4.

This hollow bushing 35 is turnable on an inner studshaft 36. As shown in Fig. 3, this stud-shaft 36 has a coaxial. threaded end 36a, which is screwed into. a threaded recess of an eccentric wheel 37, which is fixed to and which is. eccentric relative toshaft 38, which is continuously turned in the same direction while the machine is operating. This eccentric wheel 37 operates the looper. and it rocks the needle shaft 12.

The pivot pin 34 is thus shifted back and forth between. its respective extreme positions which are. shown in fulllinesand broken lines in Fig. 3', and the looper L is actuated to. operate as above described. v

The usual feeddog 22 is operated in the usual fourmotion path, in order to intermittently engage and feed the. work longitudinally away from the operator towards the. rear of the machine.

As. shown in Fig. 4, the feed-dog 22 has an extension 22a,,which is fixed by screws 41 to one. end ofa feedbar- 42,. which has an annular hub. 42a which fits on a part; of the periphery of the eccentric wheel 37. As shown in Fig. 3, a spacing collar 53 is located between said hub. 42a and a' flange of the eccentric wheel 37. The hub 42; is thus located on the eccentric wheel 37 between said collar 53 and another flange of wheel 37. Said. Wheel 3.7 is freely turnable relative to. the hub 42a, so, that hub. 42a. operates as an eccentric strap.

As shown in Fig. 4 and Fig. 11, the feed bar 42 has a bore in which a pivot pin 43 is located. As shown in Fig; 4, this pivot pin 43 extends into a disc 44, which isfii ed to. a pivot pin 45. The pivot pin 45 is turnable in a. bearing of the frame F. The disc 44 is oscillated by the eccentric 'wheel 37 about the central axis of the pivot pin 45, which turns in unison with. the disc 44 relative to. frame F. As shown in Fig. 11, the pivot pin 45 provided with a split head 55, whose parts are held; together by releasable fastening members 55a. The enlarged head 55a prevents the longitudinal shifting of pivot 45. to the. right as viewed in Fig. 11. The disc 44 is oscillated during the reciprocating movement of the bar 42, around the. axis of pivot 45, in order to raise and lower the feed-dog 22 in timed relation to its longitudh D3 rearward.- feeding and return longitudinal strokes. The pin 45. may be fixed to. frame F and disc 44 may be turnable; on pin 45.

Fig. 1;, Fig. 2 and Fig. 4 show the usual rib R, which is oscillated in the usual manner, in order intermittently. to form the upward longitudinal bight or bend of the work. in the front part of the longitudinal slot 21 of needle plate 14. This rib R is fixed to the rib-shaft 47 which is oscillated in the usual manner. The mechanism for oscillating the shaft 47 of rib R is located in the hollow base B of the machine and is of the usual type, sothat it is not shown.

Fig. 4 shows the usual top pressure finger 48 which presses downwardly against the top of the bight of the work which is formed in the slot 21, in order to cooperate, with the rib R in forming the bight. As shown in Fig. 3 and Fig. 4, this pressure finger 48 is turnably connected to a lateral pin 50 which is fixed by a screw 51 to the needle plate 14. A torsion, spring 52 is located around the pin 50, One end of this torsion spring 52 abuts the pressure finger 48 in order to urge it to turn d nwar ly.

As. shown in Fig. 4, a collar- '58 is releasably fixed to the need e me t-shaft by a. amn ng rew. 5.9. in

' type ofsewing operation.

order to. prevent sliding movement of the needle rock.- shaft 12) in its bearing in the frame F to. the. right, as: viewed. in Fig. 4. As also shown in Fig. 4, the, rock.- shaft 12v is provided with a. reduced left end 12a. As shown in Fig; 4 and; Fig, 12, a hub. isv provided at one one of a lever or arm 61. This hub 60 is clamped or otherwise releasably. fixed to the reduced end 12a of the needle-shaft 12. This. arm or lever 61 is oscillated, in order to oscillate the needle-shaft 1 2.

Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 showanothereccentric strap or hub. which consists of two parts 62 and 62a, which are held to each other by screws 63. mounted on eccentric wheel 37.. This strap 62-.62a is used to oscillate the arm or lever 61 and hence-tooscillate the needle-shaft 12 by means of intermediate parts. The wheel 37 rotates freely relative to this strap 62;62a As shown in Fig. 3, these parts. 62 and 62a of said hub or strap have inner concave. walls which interfit with a convex part of the periphery of eccentric wheel 37, so that said strap or hub 62-46211 cannot shift relative to eccentric wheel 37 in a direction parallel to its actuate. ingshaft 38.

Fig. 12 shows bearing members 71 and 72', which are connected to each other by screws 73 and 73a. Figs. 4 and 12 show a member 69, which has. a general ball-. shape and which is provided with opposed fiat walls. Said assembled bearing members 71 and 72 have a con: cave socket, in which the spherical part of the member 69 fits turnably. Said member 69 has a pin 70 which is parallel to shait 12 and which is fixed to the arm or lever; 61.

As shown in Fig. 4, the hub-member or strapememb er- 62 has.- an extension arm 64. As also shown in. Fig. 4, an arm has an end-lug 66 which is fixed releasably to said extension arm 64 by a screw 67. Theother end of said arm 65 has an end-lug 66. which is fixed releasably to bearing 71 by a screw 68.

Hence, when the eccentric wheel 37- is. turned relative to its strap or hub 62-62a, the member 69, which can turn freely relative to bearings 71 and 72, oscillates. the, lever 61, whose hub 60 is fixed to extension 12a of'shaft 12, thus, oscillating said shaft 12 and oscillating the needle N.

Fig. 15 diagrammatically shows the old-style chainstitch machinev which has been generally used for this The needle N isshown in Fig. 15 at the beginning of its left-to-right piercing stroke.

The needle-plate 14 is held fixed bythe usual plate P.

The member 6412 which is shown in Fig. 4 is an optional member which extends through a bore; of arm 65 and which abuts the adjacent flat face of the member 69.

In the example of Figs. 7-l0, the work consists of a singlepiecc-of folded fabric, in which a hem is formed by the felling stitches.

In the example of Fig. 17, the work consists of two pieces of fabric, which are sewed to each other by the felling stitches.

Hence the work may consistof a single piece of fabric, or a plurality of pieces of fabric.

In each example, the work has an edge overwhich the felling stitches are formed. In the example of Figs. 7.-10, this edge is the edge EC. In the example of Fig. 17, this edge is the right edge of the lining 81. For con-v venience, this edge is designatedv as the felling edge.

In each example, the work has a bight forming portion in which a transverse bight is formed. In the ex ample of Figs. 7.l0, this bight-forming portion is. between the felling edge EC and the edge EB. This bight forming portion is of sufiiciently small width to pass over the work-table or to. pass through the feeding space of the machine which is above the Work-supporting fingers 1 a d .4

The other lateral portion; of: the work, which is. be! tween, thee se EC and: BB. in the example. of Figs. 7110,

This strap 62,62a is.

usually has a width or lateral dimension which is much greater than the width of the work table or the width of the feeding space of the machine which is above the work-supporting fingers 16 and 16a.

As viewed in Fig. 1, the work-supporting fingers 16 and 16a and the rib R are at the left edge of the machine, and if the work is a sleeve the part of the work at which the bight is formed and in which the felling operation is performed, is moved into position from left to right, with the wide part of the work depending at this left edge of the machine. This left edge is designated as the outer edge or free edge of the machine. Fig. 1 shows the needle N at the end of its reverse stroke, which corresponds to the position of Fig. 9.

The drawings are substantially to scale, with different scales in the respective drawings, and reference is made thereto for additional disclosure.

The looper rod 27 is tilted relative to its mount 28- 28a, which turns around a lateral axis. The looper rod 27 is also turned around its axis, relative to its mount 2828a.

Thus, when the hollow bushing 35 and its offset pivot 34 are in the full-line position of Fig. 3, the looper-rod 27 is also in its full-line position of Fig. 3, and the looper L is in its extreme forward position of Fig. 9, and the needle N is at the end of its reverse left-to-right stroke which is shown in Fig. 9. Fig. 9 also shows, in broken lines, the position of the hollow bushing 35 and of the looper-rod 27, when the eccentric 37 is turned 180 from its position of Fig. 3.

The pivot 34 is in its extreme forward position, in its full-line position at Fig. 3. At this time, and as shown in Fig. 4, the feed-dog 22 is in its extreme forward position and it is ready to begin its longitudinal rearward feeding stroke. Hence the work is fed while the needle is out of the goods.

I claim:

1. In a chain-stitch sewing machine which has a frame and a front end and a longitudinal direction of feed of the Work through said machine from front to rear, the combination of the elements later stated herein, namely: a fixed needle plate which is fixed to said frame and has a longitudinal slot; work-supporting means located below said needle plate and adapted to press the work upwardly against said slot, said work-supporting means having a free edge which is at the left edge of said work-supporting means as viewed at the front of the machine so that the work can be inserted from left-to-right between said needle plate and said work-supporting means as viewed at the front of the machine; a longitudinal needle rockshaft located above said needle-plate; rock-shaft actuating means for oscillating said needle rock-shaft; a needle arm having an upper end fixed to said needle rock-shaft, a curved needle whose upper end is fixed to said needle arm, said needle arm and said curved needle being located above said needle-plate and being movable backand-forth in a lateral plane relative to said slot; a feeddog located above said needle plate and operative to feed said work longitudinally and rearwardly away from the front of the machine; feed-dog actuating means adapted to operate said feed-dog in intermittent feeding strokes; a looper which has a front long point and a short front point and which is turnable about a longitudinal axis and which is also longitudinally movable back-and-forth relative to said lateral plane and which is also movable in said lateral plane, and looper-actuating means for turning said looper and moving said looper longitudinally back-and-forth and laterally back-and-forth; a rib which is upwardly movable to an operative position to force the part of the work which is below said slot to a position above said slot, said rib being also downwardly movable to a lower idle position in which said part of said work is below the top of said slot; rib-actuating means for moving said rib between its said operative and its said idle positions; said rib having a top face which has an inverted V-shape with a left and longitudinal wall and a right and longitudinal wall and a peak at the top of said top face; said rib being located and its top being shpaed relative to said work-supporting means to provide a V- shaped bight in the lower part of the work on both said walls and only to bend the upper part of the work at said left wall in upwardly bent legs when said rib is in its said operative position; common actuating means connected to said rock-shaft actuating-means and to said feed-dog actuating means and to said looper-actuating means and to said rib-actuating means, said common actuating means being operative and timed to produce a sequence of operations as follows:

(a) to operate the feed-dog in a respective feeding stroke while the rib is in its idle position and while the needle is out of the work;

(b) to move the rig upwardly to its upper position to form said bight and said upwardly bent legs;

(0) to move the needle from right-to-left in a piercing stroke to pass the needle through said bight and said upwardly bent legs and to the left of said peak to the extreme left position of said needle while said looper is at the left of the right end of said needle and said looper is laterally intermediate said right end and the left point of said needle and while said looper is located rearwardly of said needle;

(d) to move said needle reversely in a part of its leftto-right reverse stroke while throwing out a new loop of needle-thread from the needle to the left and while moving said looper longitudinally forwardly and while passing only the long point of said looper through said new loop and while locating said long point to the left of said peak;

(2) shifting said looper from left to right in unison with said needle in the remainder of its reverse stroke to shift the looper from the left of said peak to the right of said peak while turning said looper to insert both of its points into said new loop and to shift said new loop into position to be engaged by the needle in the next right-to-left piercing stroke and removing said points from said new loop at the right of said peak, thus forming, by the successive sequences of said operation, a series of interchained loops of needle-thread in which the loops of needle thread are passed through the thicker part of the work at points which are spaced longitudinally forwardly and are to the left of the points at which the loops of needle thread are passed through the thinner part of the work.

2. A combination according to claim 1, in which the looper has supporting means, which include a looper-rod which has a ball, a split yoke which comprises two yokemembers which are fixed to each other and which have a ball-shaped recess in which said ball is turnable, one of said yoke-members having a sleeve fixed thereto, said sleeve being perpendicular to said looper rod, said sleeve being mounted turnably on a pivot-stud which is fixed to a turnable, cylindrical bushing which is turnably mounted in said frame, said pivot-stud being eccentric relative to said bushing, and means for releasably fixing said bushing to said frame.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 721,077 Onderdonk Feb. 17, 1903 1,467,570 Dearborn Sept. 11, 1923 1,592,447 Dearborn July 13, 1926 1,960,803 Baumer May 29, 1934 2,108,100 Buono Feb. 15, 1938 2,108,101 Buono Feb. 15, 1938 2,172,494 Bowman Sept. 12, 1939 2,199,171 Gruman Apr. 30, 1940 2,250,745 Buono July 29, 1941 2,658,464 Greco Nov. 10, 1953 

